Naadam Festival is the biggest holiday here. It is a huge celebration that is a combination of an independence celebration and the largest national sporting event. Ulaanbaatar comes to a halt, except for Naadam for about 4 days. The festival includes much traditional celebration with costumes, dancing, music, wonderful horse routines and displays of Mongolian pride. It also includes the “three manly games” – wrestling, archery and horse racing. Really women participate in everything but wrestling, but it is still called the manly games.
In order to see the most of the events, get tickets and not hassle with transportation I bought a 2-day tour package. It was a great decision. I was able to see the magnificent opening ceremonies, wrestling, archery, anklebone shooting and horse races. Also, we had great guides who shared a lot of history and stories with us. It was wonderful.
The opening ceremonies were fantastic. They included music both by an impressive military band and the national orchestra, which is great. All of the participants were in traditional dress, which is very impressive and beautiful. Then there was dancing, music, acrobatics and a colorful display of traditional entertainment. The skills and costumes are unbeatable.
Next, the horses came in bringing the Mongolian flag. The traditional flag is circular and made out of horsehair. It is majestic and beautiful. The horses are beautiful and the riders are very skilled. It is a sight not to miss. Of course, speeches and pomp and circumstances included as well.
Then the wrestling began. The wrestling went on for the full 2 days. I don’t have the best photos due to the distance, but at least you can see the dress and the sizes of the people. Mongolian wrestling is unique and fun to watch. In Mongolian wrestling there are no weight categories so people of different sizes face off together. It is a display of strength and strategy, with a lot of tradition. If it appears that a wrestler is not trying hard enough, the officials hit them on the butt. The matches can go on for quite some time. If it does not seem likely that it will end then the officials put them in a certain position with one’s head against the others shoulder and usually it comes to an end shortly after that. The match ends when one of the wrestlers is on the ground. After the victory the winner puts his hands up, bent at the elbows and then dances around. He then comes back and moves his body over the losers shoulder. Then the judges put his hat back on and he dances around the flags in the center of the area. It is fun to watch.
Though my photos of this are not the best you can tell that the wrestlers jackets are open in the front. Our guide told us that they used to be closed in front. But in some major event one person kept winning and winning and eventually won the champion match. Only when the jacket was removed did everyone see that the champion was a woman. Good for her!!! Instead of letting women wrestle they changed the tops the wrestlers wear so it would be impossible for a woman to participate in the event. This holds today, but women do participate in other events.
Next was archery. Men and women both participate and all wear traditional dress. They look so beautiful and impressive and they really can shoot. It was really fun to see. I also got to watch another event, anklebone shooting. In this event they use a small sheep anklebone, and a metal tray to shoot them with. Then they flick them across an area to knock down targets that are other bones stacked up. It is a very collegial atmosphere with chanting and encouragement for all.
After all this, I went with another person from my tour to a throat-singing concert at the Choijin Lama Temple Museum. This is a form of singing that has a very, very long history in Mongolia. If you want to hear more about it there are some cuts on YouTube; and there are Naadam bits also. The 2 people singing on this day were amazingly gifted. I do not know how they do it, but the sounds emanate from so deep in their core and the range of tones is huge. Literally, every cell in my body was vibrating and responding. The musicians accompanying the singers play a magical accompaniment to the strength of the throat signing. This was a perfect cap to a magical day.
My day started early the next morning with a 1-½ hour drive out to where the horse races are. The race we saw is considered to be one of the best ones to see. It is out in the country, in an open field, with a bit of a country fair atmosphere without all the junk at our fairs. There is one area of gers that are cooking and selling food, otherwise it is open fields with kites flying, families picnicking and about 500,000 people getting ready to watch the one race. The race is a 24-kilometer, about 14+ miles where the horses run full out the whole way. And in this race it is only 6 year olds racing. WOW!!! They are amazing. Children here start riding pretty much as soon as they can walk, and by 6 they can really ride and race. Though we just saw a part of the race, it was great to see and even better to share this tradition with Mongolians. What a gift to be here.
Truly this was a magical weekend for me with my love for and connection to Mongolia continuing to grow. I will get more pictures up on my face book page from Naadam soon. Saturday I am off to the Gobi desert, then back in a few days and off again to visit a public health doctor in Darkhan, a town near the Russian border. Then one more week here, then off to Beijing then home.